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Shoe Production Method & Broguing

Whether sturdy and waterproof or sophisticated and flexible, a shoe takes on desired qualities through the production method used. The method selected determines how the upper and sole will be attached to one another. Each type of men’s shoe can in turn be decorated with various types of broguing, Shoes featuring this kind of decoration are known as brogues.

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Men’s shoe types differ; shoe production methods and decorative options differ as well. Shoe production method refers to the manner in which the upper and sole are attached to one another. The selected method is decisive in determining shoe price, durability and fit, as well as the ease of repair. Shoe production methods are chosen based on the requirements made of a shoe. For example, hiking shoes meant to be sturdy should be made using the double-stitching method, whereas high-quality dress shoes should be Goodyear-welted.

Brogues, for their part, are high-quality men’s shoes that feature decorative patterns of perforation. Broguing may be applied regardless of shoe type—be it an oxford, derby, blucher, monk strap, or men’s boot. Each of these basic types can be made into a brogue at the production stage. There are three kinds of brogues: half-brogues, full brogues and longwing brogues.

An overview of various shoe production methods::

 

Double-Stitching

Double-Stitching

Shoes that are meant to be worn in extremely adverse conditions are made using the double-stitching production method. This method makes shoes remarkably robust and waterproof, in addition to lending them a sturdy look.

Double-Stitching
Goodyear Welting

Goodyear Welting

Elegant shoes such as the oxford or derby are made using the Goodyear welting production method. Such shoes boast a refined appearance and high durability. Goodyear-welted shoes are also quite easy to repair. This shoe production method has been in use for 400 years.

Goodyear Welting
Blake Construction

Blake Construction

One can recognize Blake-stitched shoes by their soles: the insole is sewn directly to the outsole. Blake-stitched shoes such as loafers don’t have cork bottom fillers or any additional layers of insulation.

Blake Construction
Veldtschoen

Veldtschoen

English country and hiking shoes are made using the Veldtschoen shoe production method. The upper is double-stitched onto the midsole. This method produces waterproof shoes that retain their form.

Veldtschoen

An overview of broguing types:

Brogues

Brogues

Brogues are shoes that feature subtle to extravagant decorative perforation. When it comes to broguing, it doesn’t mater what type of men’s shoe is used as a base; all of the basic types can feature this kind of decoration.

Brogues
Half-Brogues

Half-Brogues

Half-brogues are distinguished by a subtle pattern of perforations. They embody reserved elegance and pair nicely with suits. Usually they’re made of smooth calfskin.

Half-Brogues
Full Brogues

Full Brogues

The Duke of Windsor made them famous; the full brogue, richly adorned with Lyra perforation along the seams, has a sporty feel, and is usually made of scotch grain leather.

Full Brogues
Longwing Brogues

Longwing Brogues

The longwing brogue is a variation on the full brogue. Since they feature a wingtip cap that extends to the back of the shoe, longwing brogues go without a heel cap. These shoes always feature open lacing.

Longwing Brogues

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